After months of planning our trip to Japan--or, as Alan and I came to call it, Japlanning--we finally took our trip during the second week of May! I'll be posting a separate blog post for each day of our adventure, based on journaling I did during the trip.
Alan came over Friday night so that we could leave together for SFO bright and early. We ordered a pizza from Escape from NY, and decided that, to be proactive about jet lag, we would stay up all night, and then sleep on the plane, because take off was at 6 am, or 10 pm Japan time. So, we spent the night watching Firefly, playing cards, and generally waiting with baited breath for our taxi to arrive at 4 am.
Our flight schedule was a bit silly. We had a great deal on our Delta flight, but we had to fly from SF to LA, and then back up to Seattle before we could catch our flight to Osaka. We were nervous on our LA to Seattle flight, because the plane took off late due to a mechanical problem that had to be fixed, but we made it with a half hour to spare.
The flight to Osaka wasn't half bad. The plane was huge, a 767 with seats for over 250 people, high ceilings, and plenty of leg room for someone short like me. We tried to sleep until morning time in Japan, but it was difficult to get deep sleep with the noise of the plane, and the excitement of our journey. I hadn't told the airline about Alan being a vegetarian in time (they require 10 days' notice, which is absurd), but fortunately the flight attendant repurposed a little food from first class to put together a meal for him.
To pass the time, we watched the third Batman movie, which was really dark, but excellent. We also played Scrabble (I lost, by a lot), played with our little touch screen consoles, and did a crossword puzzle. Other than that, we chatted, ate food, napped, and gazed out of the window expectantly.
We arrived in Osaka ahead of schedule, and stopped in at the restroom before heading to customs. All of the toilets in the women's room were bidets! I didn't try it out... There were a lot of buttons, and it was all in Japanese. I'm just glad I figured out how to flush.
Customs was easy. I was half-expecting them to ask a bunch of questions, but they just took my fingerprints, a photo, and did the necessary paperwork. We exited the airport to bright sunshine and gorgeous weather in the 70s, and I enjoyed my first vending machine beverage, a small can of Boss cafe au lait, while we waited for our bus (a.k.a., airport limousine) to Kyoto.
The bus was nice, like a chartered bus you'd see in the United States. I enjoyed being able to see some of the city as we drove for 90 minutes, and remarked upon the eclectic layout of the city--apartment buildings next to factories with smoke stacks, next to golf driving ranges, next to single family homes.
We arrived at Kyoto station feeling sleepy, but excited. We found a cab, and Alan explained where we were going; Obaachan's house is near the Imperial Palace, but doesn't really have a house number. The cab driver took us through a number of narrow streets to get there, my first glimpse close-up of the streets of Kyoto.
"Koko, koko!" Alan said suddenly to the cab driver, pointing to a small, two-story house. We were here! We rang the doorbell, and Alan's mom greeted us at the door. Obaachan's tiny face peeked out from the doorway, smiling and greeting us, as we took off our shoes and wiped down the dusty wheels of our luggage before entering.
Obaachan, and her house, reminded me strongly of my paternal grandmother, Nana. Obaachan made us green tea, and we ate mochi wrapped in bamboo leaves, to bring us good luck on Children's Day. Obaachan was warm, with kind eyes and a laugh that put me at ease despite our language barrier.
After settling in a bit, Alan and I left with Alan's mom to have dinner with some of her friends. There were eight of us; I was the only one who didn't speak Japanese, but they did a nice job of trying to include me, and I could pick up a number of things through context. The meal itself was a feast. Plate after plate of food came out from the tiny kitchen window next to our table: three different types of bamboo shoots (in season, and as tender as artichoke hearts), squid, sashimi, salad, tofu, squishy stuff on a small skewer, and at least ten other items I cannot remember.
The group complemented me on my good use of hashi, but I undermined their praise when I dropped half of a piece of steamed sweet potato in just the right way to cause a toothpick-sized skewer resting on the edge of my plate to launch into the air and ricochet off of Alan's mom. Thankfully, everyone found it hilarious instead of mortifying, but that didn't stop me from turning bright red!
The meal, while delicious and with entertaining company, lasted for several hours, which was exhausting for a jet-lagged traveller. Alan and I were practically falling asleep at the table when the meal finally ended, and Alan's mom took us home. We climbed up the steep staircase to the second floor, where our beds were, and fell asleep at once, elated by the promise of tomorrow, our first full day in Kyoto.